Chiryanka (Pinguicula) is a herbaceous compact perennial, which is part of the perennial family. Basically, this plant is found naturally in marshy areas in the temperate regions of the Northern Hemisphere. Some of the varieties are found in the subtropics of America, as well as in the Arctic regions. This plant comes from Europe, there are about 12 of its species.
Zhiryanka is one of the carnivorous plants. Its main source of food is various insects. To lure and absorb insects, the plant has fleshy leaf plates, on the surface of which there are a large number of sticky thin hairs. Leaf plates are part of dense rosettes, which can reach a height of up to 15 centimeters. In spring, tall peduncles grow from the middle of the leaf rosette, which reach a length of about 0.4 m. Single small purple flowers open at their tops. Under natural conditions, you can meet varieties of fatty woman with flowers of yellow, white, pink and blue hues.
Zhiryanka does not grow very quickly, while its flowering is observed in spring. Among all the predatory plants, the Zhiryanka is the most unpretentious and undemanding to care for. She is a perennial plant.
Brief description of cultivation
- Temperature... In the summer - from 25 to 35 degrees, and in the winter - from 15 to 18 degrees.
- Air humidity... Should be increased, however, the foliage from the sprayer should not be moistened and washed. It is recommended to grow the shrub in a terrarium where high humidity is required.
- Illumination... Moderate, while the rays of the sun should be diffused. In the room, this flower feels fine both under artificial lighting and in a shaded place.
- Watering... In summer, it is moderate - once every 2 or 3 days, and in winter, not so often - once every 7 days.
- Soil mixture... Must be acidic and well-drained. For example, you can take a mixture of sand and peat, while sphagnum or vermiculite is added to it for greater looseness.
- Fertilizer... Do not feed.
- Transfer... Young bushes - every year, and adults - once every couple of years.
- Reproduction... Leaf cuttings, seed method and dividing rosettes.
- Possible problems... The bush reacts negatively to an overly tight container, it can hurt a lot because of this and not bloom. It is not recommended to disturb the plant by turning it with the pot relative to the light source.
Insectivorous plant. Exotic
Caring for zhiryanka at home
As a rule, indoor zhiryanka begins to bloom in the spring. From the middle of the leaf rosettes, tall peduncles grow from her, on the tops of which single small flowers open, which outwardly resemble violets. As a rule, they are colored purple, but you can meet varieties with white, blue, pink or yellow petals.
During the growing season, the flower feels best at an air temperature of 25 to 30 degrees, and in winter - from 15 to 18 degrees. Fat can also grow at a temperature of about 35 degrees, but in this case it must be watered regularly, as well as maintain a high level of humidity.
Wipe with a sponge, moisten from a spray bottle and even just wash the foliage cannot, otherwise the above-ground part of the bush may be damaged and rot will appear on it. To maintain high humidity, it is recommended to put the plant pot on a wide pallet, which is filled with wet expanded clay. However, it feels best in the terrarium.
The plant does not need excessively bright light, while it needs to be protected from direct sunlight. Place the bush on a western or eastern window sill. If desired, it can be placed in the back of the room, because it grows well under artificial lighting.
During the growing season, the plant is provided with regular moderate watering (2 or 3 times a week). In winter, the pudding is watered less often (about 1 time in 7 days). The water should be well settled and not cold. Make sure that droplets of liquid do not fall on the foliage, as this can cause rotting of the bush and its further death. If desired, watering can be carried out through the pallet, while making sure that the substrate in the pot is slightly damp all the time.
Choice of capacity
In a too cramped pot, the flower will not be able to grow and develop normally, as well as bloom. Therefore, they take a spacious pot. The root system of the plant is weak, and in order to prevent its decay, it is necessary to completely eliminate the stagnation of liquid in the substrate. Remember that there must be drainage holes at the bottom of the container.
A well-drained soil mixture for planting and transplanting is chosen and it is better if it is acidic. In order to make it yourself, combine sand, peat and vermiculite (or sphagnum).
It is not necessary to additionally feed the zhiryanka. An excessively large amount of nutrients in the soil mixture can have an extremely negative effect on the development of the plant, up to its death. Feeding the bush with insects on your own is also not worth it, because the flower will cope with this on its own. However, you can attract flies to the plant by placing a sliced fruit next to it.
During the first years of life, young bushes need a regular annual transplant, which is carried out at the beginning of spring. Carefully transfer the bush together with the clod of earth into a new container. If you wish, you can remove some of the old soil mixture, but in no case injure the weak roots, as this may cause the fatty to die.
Adult bushes are transplanted once every 2 years or even less often. The transplant is carried out only after the root system becomes cramped in the pot.
Predatory plant zhiryanka. Leaving, flowering, leaf propagation.
You do not need to cut off the room fat. However, it is recommended to promptly remove injured or wilted peduncles and leaf plates. In this case, the bush will be able to maintain its decorative effect for a long time.
The dormant period occurs in autumn and winter. At this time, watering is reduced, and also make sure that the room is moderately cool (from 15 to 18 degrees).
Growing from seeds
Indoor zhiryanka can be grown from seeds. However, it is quite difficult to do this and it is not a fact that your attempt will be successful. Sowing seeds is carried out in a light soil mixture that allows water to pass through well. It is not necessary to sprinkle them on top or to bury them in the substrate. From above, the crops are covered with glass or foil.
The air temperature should be from 22 to 24 degrees, the light should be bright and diffused, and the humidity should be high. Only in this case, the first seedlings can appear several weeks after sowing.
After emergence, make sure that they do not rot. To do this, provide the plants with systematic ventilation and moderate watering, and also protect them from sudden temperature changes. When the plants are 15–20 days old, they can be planted in individual containers.
Propagation by leaf cuttings
Autumn is best suited for propagation by leafy cuttings. Carefully cut off the leaf plate, sprinkle the cut with charcoal powder and plant it for rooting in peat or other loose substrate. Rooted cuttings are planted in individual containers.
At first, it is recommended to cover the cuttings with a transparent cap (bag, glass jar, etc.). After they begin to grow actively, the shelter is removed.
Carnivorous plants. Zhiryanka - division and reproduction.
Problems with room fat can arise only if the rules of care are violated:
- The foliage dries up or burns appear on its surface in the form of dark specks... The bush was in direct sunlight for a long time.
- Foliage shrivels and dries up... Due to lack of moisture in the substrate or dry air.
- Lack of flowering... The roots are cramped in the container or there is too little lighting.
- The appearance of rot in the winter... Watering too often or too much.
- In winter, the foliage flew around... Zhiryanka went into a state of rest.
Pests try to bypass such a plant. But if the humidity in the room is very low, then aphids and spider mites can settle on it.
Types of zhiryanka with photos and names
Common Chiryanka (Pinguicula vulgaris)
Originally from the temperate and northern regions of America and Europe. Small rosettes are composed of sessile, greenish, oblong-shaped leaf plates. Drooping single flowers are colored violet-blue.
Alpine bead (Pinguicula alpina)
It is found in the mountainous and northern parts of Eurasia. Dense rosettes are composed of greenish-yellow fleshy sessile leaf plates. Straight (sometimes drooping) single flowers are painted in a white or yellowish tint with a rich yellow speck on the surface of the lower lip.
Moran Butter (Pinguicula moranensis)
This species is native to South America. Its life cycle is divided into wet and dry periods. In the summer, the first period is observed: dark burgundy or greenish-yellow leaf plates grow near the bush, forming small rosettes. Also during this period, peduncles are formed, on which from 1 to 7 single flowers of white or lilac color are formed.
The second period of the life cycle begins with the onset of cold weather. Carnivorous foliage at this time is replaced by winter: the leaf plates are elongated and smooth, there are no glands on the surface for catching prey.
Balkan Chiryanka (Pinguicula balcanica)
It occurs naturally on the Balkan Peninsula. Dense rosettes consist of bright green short-peaked leaf plates. In the warm season, tall peduncles grow from their middle, on which single flowers of a whitish or blue hue are formed.
Albuca care at home
The brighter the lighting, the more decorative the albuka will look. Its leaves - spirals more twisted from the bright light. Also, a lot of light is required for flowering. Therefore, it should be placed in a location with good, intense lighting. Considering that the growing season of albuka often falls on a period with a short daylight hours, artificial lighting is desirable.
In the summer, the air temperature for the albuka does not really matter. It is able to withstand during this period a relatively high temperature up to +30 degrees. But in winter, this temperature should be moderate and even lowered within + 13-16 degrees. In order for the spiral albuka to give a peduncle and bloom, it needs a daily temperature drop starting in December.
Like all succulents, albuca does not like excess moisture, especially its stagnation. Therefore, it must be watered abundantly, but only after the earthen coma has dried. Excess moisture negatively affects the appearance of the plant. It is noticed that with frequent abundant watering, the leaves of the albuka are twisted weakly. With the onset of a dormant period, which is characterized by drooping leaves, watering is reduced until it stops completely.
Spiral albuka is fertilized only during the growing season. For her dressing, mineral fertilizers for succulents are suitable. They must be applied twice a month or according to the instructions for fertilization.
The dormant period of the albuca
Basically, the development of albuka at home occurs in the winter, and flowering in mid-April. The spiral albuka blooms for about one and a half to two months, after which it gradually passes to a state of dormancy. Its leaves droop, and often completely fall off. At this time, they stop watering it and leave it to rest at room temperature in a shaded place. The end of the dormant period of the albuca is the appearance of young leaves. From this moment, watering and feeding are resumed, the plant is exhibited in a lighted place.
Spiral albuka transplant
Before the end of the dormant period, which occurs in the fall, the albuka is transplanted into fresh soil, and, if necessary, into a larger pot. For transplanting, it is better to use a ready-made mixture for succulents with a high content of sand or perlite. When planting - transplanting an albuka, the plant bulb is deepened no more than half the height.
Reproduction of albuka
Basically, at home, they practice vegetative reproduction of the albuka, by children. This is a more efficient and simpler way. At the same time, it allows you to preserve all the species and varietal characteristics of the plant, which is not always possible when propagated by seeds.
Reproduction of albuka by children carried out in conjunction with a transplant, in the fall. Young bulbs are carefully separated from the mother plant and planted in a suitable pot (usually 5-7 centimeters in diameter). Caring for a young albuca at home is the same as for an adult plant.
Reproduction of albuka by seeds the process is somewhat more complicated and less efficient. First of all, its low efficiency is characterized by low seed germination. And plants grown in this way can differ significantly in appearance and properties from the mother.
Only fresh albuka seeds are suitable for reproduction. After six months, they are almost unsuitable for planting. They are sown on the surface of a light earthen mixture and slightly buried in it. As with growing seedlings, a container with seeds is covered with any transparent material and placed in a bright, warm place. The optimum temperature for germination of albuka seeds is +25 - 28 degrees. You should not overmoisten the soil at all stages of growing albuka from seeds. Excess moisture can destroy it. Under favorable conditions, the first shoots can be expected in a couple of weeks. The leaves will begin to twist in a spiral in a few months, and in a year the bulb will form. The flowering of a young albuka spiral, grown from seeds, can be expected three years after sowing the seeds.